Review of Fifteen Restaurant
Jamie Oliver’s Fifteen Restaurant is celebrates it’s 13th birthday this year and it’s only taken me 13 years to dine there! shame on me. The non-profit restaurant and bar trains and mentors apprentices, who if the graduate through the program have a chance to work as a chef within the kitchen.
Ilovecakeandtea were given the best table in the house, right by the open kitchen to witness the hustle and bustle of chef’s goings on.
Up first were the cocktails;
Rose Gimlet – a stiff gin cocktail served straight up made from Beefeater gin, housemade yuzu and rose water cordial. Sensational! a refreshing tipple, strong with a sweet fruity subtle aftertaste.
Rye me a river – a take on an Old Fashion cocktail, whiskey infused with chamomile tea, Antica Formula, lemon juice, vanilla syrup & cherry heering. Served short and on the rocks it might be small but packs at punch! sweet yet sour from the citrus twist.
For starters we ordered;
Crispy pig’s cheek, Clarence Court egg, Braeburn apple, kimchi
Almost unbreakable pig’s cheek was deep fried till golden brown and crisp enough to create the best pork crackling. With a salty exterior inside the fatty meat remained succulent and sweet. The star of the plate was the kimchi, sour pickled cabbage leaves wrapped up was fantasically spiced with ruby red chilli flakes and salty from the brine which has infused the cabbage cutting through the richness of the dish. The added soft boiled egg used its glossy gooey almost buttery yolk for that extra sumptuousness.
Cured mackerel, Granny Smith apple, buttermilk and dill
A very Nordic dish but with a British finish. Fresh, silky fillet of fish almost creamy and sweet against the dense luxurious buttermilk and herby dill.
Presented beautifully on the plate each element complimenting one another on every level of flavour.
Hereford short rib, grelot onion, King Edward mash, Montgomery Cheddar – Delicately sat in a light stock was a hefty portion of short rib, phenomenonally tender meat which fell off the bone at the slightest touch. It’s soft texture was melt in your mouth heaven, intensely rich with that carnivore meaty flavour. The mash creamed to perfect with a generous sprinkling of cheddar for a deep rich nutty taste. A handful of fresh woody chanterelles topped off this excellent main course from gastro to glorious.
Suffolk lamb, malted spelt, silver skin onion, anchovy, rainbow chard – The lamb was slightly charred on top and cooked to medium tender perfection. The meat was a thick cut of lamb remarkbly juicy perched onto top of wholesome hearty spelt pearls a very modern addition to meat and two veg dish. The vibrant rainbow chard bought the plate to life not only in colour but texture and flavour.
Carrot cake trifle – Spiced fruit cake laced with cinnamon and ginger is like christmas in your mouth. Topped with an indulgent silky creme pat and dive down through the crumbled cake to hit the final layer of fruity yet sour damson compote. A generous helping of flaked almonds for extra texture and crunch, a delicious and contemporary trifle with perfect autumnal flavours.
Caramelized filo pastry, cream cheese, beetroot syrup – a sweetened dense scoop of cream cheese sat on thin layers of crispy sugared filo pastry, topped with beetroot crisps, flaked almonds and beetroot syrup. A decontructed baklava you could say; sticky sweet sugar syrup against the delicate filo and moriesh mouth melting cream cheese was divine.
Sweetcorn ice- cream and cake with a black olive caramel – an ingenious dessert originally from Mexico, the infused milky corn ice- cream has a custard creaminess taste resembling the classic Cornish vanilla ice-cream enjoyed as a child. The black olive caramel is a dark intense sticky treacle complimenting the sweetcorn with an earthy flavour. The light sweetcorn cake is torn up and dotted about the plate, gorgeously soft sponge texture. An incredibly clever dish capturing the distinct sweetcorn flavour without overpowering ingredient.
Jamie Oliver’s Fifteen was impressive from start to finish. I didn’t know what to except but I was completely taken back at the quality of ingredients, innovative flavours and dishes. It’s a brasserie styled restaurant serving exquisite plates of food with a classic British gastro pub touch. The tavern decor makes a relaxed and socialble atmosphere, extremely knowledgable and charming staff made the night all the more special.